Lacking the freshness we would expect in a non-vintaged Brut, this wine
clearly shows toasty, autolyzed characteristics and a surprising
suggestion of age in its slightly biscuity, slightly dry and angular
flavors. Its early complexities go a long way towards keeping it alive,
yet the wine seems neither as vital as it should be nor as rich and deep
as it needs to be. Withal, it has great, and that counts for something.